A winter morning safari in Kanha

I’ve explored the wonders of Kanha Tiger Reserve countless times, yet each safari feels like a new adventure, filled with the thrill of the unknown. Over the years, I’ve done more than 1,000 safaris here, each one holding its own unforgettable moments. Today, I’m excited to share one particularly memorable winter safari from last year with a group of conservationists from the United States. Though their careers varied—from media personality to photographers—they all shared a profound passion for wildlife conservation, making this experience truly special.

For those unfamiliar with Kanha Tiger Reserve, I’ve detailed its magnificence in various previous blogs. But before I dive into this adventure, let me share a quick overview of what are the different zones for tiger safari in Kanha, which gives you a glimpse into what makes a Kanha safari so unique and exhilarating.

Tourism zones of Kanha 

Kanha Zone

  The Kanha Zone, is the center part of the Kanha Tiger Reserve, is celebrated for its breathtaking landscapes, diverse habitats, and consistent tiger sightings. Key areas within this zone, such as Kanha Meadow, the expansive grassland where herbivores graze, make it a prime location for spotting tigers as they emerge to hunt. Another notable spot in this zone is Schaller Hide, a viewing area named after the famed wildlife biologist George Schaller, offering an excellent vantage for observing wildlife along the meadow’s edges. Bison Road, winding through dense forests, also attracts tigers as they traverse between forests and meadows. Together, these areas—Kanha Meadow, Schaller Hide, nine no. road, Ghoda Chhapar, Shravan talab and Bison Road—are popular among visitors hoping to glimpse Kanha’s majestic tigers against the backdrop of lush forests and sweeping grasslands. I had many sightings of tigers in this zone on a Tiger Safari in Kanha. 

 

 

Kisli Zone

 The Kisli Zone in Kanha Tiger Reserve is also a great area for tiger sightings, offering a mix of dense Sal forests, open meadows, and winding trails that enhance the thrill of each safari. Popular spots within this zone, like Karai Ghati, are known for frequent tiger activity as the terrain here provides ideal cover for big cats to rest and hunt. Salghat, with its thick forest cover, is another prime location where tigers are often spotted moving through the trees, and it’s not unusual to catch a glimpse of one crossing the trail.

The Fourth Kilometer, a specific point within the zone, has gained a reputation for sightings due to regular tiger movements in this area, making every approach here exciting. Raja Kachhar is another favorite, with its combination of open and forested spaces that attract both prey animals and predators. 

Mukki Zone

 The Mukki Zone of Kanha Tiger Reserve is celebrated for its scenic diversity, offering vast meadows, serene water bodies, and dense forests that make it a prime area for tiger sightings and other thrilling wildlife encounters. Among its highlights is Baba Thenga, a secluded spot with a man-made pond where tigers are often seen, especially in the hot summer months. Another hotspot, Sondhar Tank, a water body, attracts a rich mix of animals and migratory birds, providing excellent opportunities to observe wildlife. Duke Road, named after the Duke of Edinburgh’s visit in 1983, is a favored route for tigers moving between the forest and meadows, enhancing visitors’ chances for a sighting. Chhota Chhatta Pathra, with its dense cover and rugged landscape, serves as a prime hunting ground for big cats, adding to Mukki’s appeal as one of Kanha’s best zones for tiger encounters. Together, these areas make Mukki a top choice for those seeking the thrill of Kanha’s wildlife up close and to make their tiger safari more exciting.

 

 

Sarhi Zone

 The Sarhi Zone, a relatively new addition to Kanha’s tourism areas, offers a refreshing contrast to the reserve’s more crowded zones. Known for its mixed dry deciduous forests and expansive grasslands, Sarhi provides a serene, crowd-free experience that many wildlife enthusiasts appreciate. This zone is particularly noted for sightings of antelopes, leopards, wild dogs, and tigers, making it a sought-after spot for spotting these species in their natural habitats. Additionally, Sarhi offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, with rugged terrain and lush greenery, creating an immersive and memorable safari experience.

Buffer Zone

 The buffer zone near Kanha’s Kisli and Mukki gates offers a unique experience for visitors, blending wildlife encounters with glimpses into local life. While these multiuse forests serve the needs of nearby villages—who frequent the area to collect minor forest products—they are also home to a significant number of resident tigers. This offers visitors on tiger safari in Kanha an unusual opportunity to witness tigers in a landscape where they coexist closely with local communities. For those curious about how harmonious coexistence between villagers and tigers is possible, a tiger safari in Kanha’s buffer zone is an eye-opening experience.

Also Read : Grasslands of Kanha Tiger Reserve

 

Landing at Raipur Airport

 Now that you have an understanding of Kanha’s diverse tourism zones, let’s dive into our safari experience. After landing at Raipur airport, we embarked on a scenic four-hour drive to Kanha, winding through some of central India’s most breathtaking landscapes and pristine forests. About two hours into the journey, we paused for lunch at a serene spot, enjoying a delightful meal at a charming restaurant with excellent facilities. Refreshed and energized, we continued our drive and soon arrived at our luxurious resort on the Mukki side of Kanha Tiger Reserve. The excitement in the air was palpable as we received a brief orientation about the lodge, then took some time to relax before indulging in a delicious dinner. With an early morning tiger safari in Kanha on the agenda, we retired to our comfortable rooms, eagerly anticipating the adventure that awaited us in Kanha the next day.

 

The Tiger Safari in Kanha

 The lodge wake-up call arrived early, and we stirred ourselves awake, welcomed by hot tea and coffee. The cold was biting, but our excitement was stronger, so we bundled up in the blankets provided and climbed into the open safari jeeps, which offered a perfect 360-degree view of Kanha’s wilderness. It was barely dawn, and as we drove toward the gate, the frigid air cut through the jeep, chilling us to the bone. Yet, every shiver was a reminder of the thrill waiting ahead.

Once at the gate, our drivers stepped down to check permits with the forest department. The anticipation was palpable as the gate opened, and each jeep, one by one, rolled forward into the park, escorted by the assigned forest guides. In Kanha, each vehicle explores its chosen zone freely, there is no need to follow a designated route. As we entered deeper into the core of the reserve, I began sharing Kanha’s story—its history, diverse vegetation, and landscape—while our guide and driver scanned every inch of the forest, alert for signs of movement or alarm calls. Despite their years of experience, they were as attentive as if this were their very first safari, fueled by the thrill of tracking.

Moving through the reserve, we passed through a sweeping grassland and spotted our first wildlife—a large herd of spotted deer. My group marveled, snapping pictures, savoring the moment. Just as we prepared to move on, we noticed a line of jeeps up ahead, motionless, and the air was thick with silence. Someone had caught the sharp, and loud alarm call of a sambar deer!

 

 

The Call of anticipation

 An ALARM CALL—a sign that a predator, likely a tiger, was nearby—sent a surge of excitement through us. We held our breath, knowing that in Kanha, each moment held the promise of a tiger encounter. Suddenly, another alarm call echoed from the opposite side of the road. Was it one tiger, or two? Our anticipation climbed to new heights, and adrenaline began to pulse. A third call rang out from the same spot, but as we scanned the treetops, we noticed some relaxed monkeys perched above. Only the sambar deer seemed on high alert. Why just the sambar? We waited, tense and hopeful, as the alarm call slowly faded. Perhaps the tiger was resting nearby, concealed but detectable to the deer’s keen nose as the breeze carried its scent, deer have excellent sense of smell. The tiger hadn’t appeared, but the mysterious alarm calls left us with the thrill of its presence lingering in the air.

The Hard Ground Barasingha

 My guests were a bit disappointed, but we pressed on. I reminded them, “This is the jungle; sightings here unfold on nature’s terms. A tiger only appears when it wants to be seen.” It’s a saying that holds true encounters in the wild are gifts of timing and patience. Just a few minutes later, our spirits lifted as we spotted the Hard Ground Barasingha, an endangered subspecies of swamp deer unique to central India and particularly to Kanha. (Though recently, they’ve been reintroduced in other reserves to establish new populations.) The sight of these magnificent animals on tiger safari in Kanha, exclusive to this landscape, was almost as thrilling as a tiger sighting. Any trace of disappointment vanished as we admired the Barasinghas, their coats glowing beautifully in the morning sun, and captured them on camera.

 

 

Keep going

 As we continued our journey, something caught our eye—”Stop! What’s that up there?” It was a stunning Indian Roller, or Blue Jay, perched on a branch, showing off its vibrant blue plumage. Known for its breathtaking colors, especially in flight, this bird dazzled us with its beauty. Its name, “roller,” comes from its unique flight pattern, like a roller coaster, and spotting it reminded us of Kanha’s rich birdlife, home to over 300 species. Winter is prime birdwatching season, with migratory species adding to the diversity. After a few photos, we stopped at Sondhar Camp for a restroom break. In Indian jungles, especially tiger reserves stepping out of the vehicle on a tiger safari is only allowed at designated spots for safety purpose, both for tourists and wildlife. Sondhar Camp, used by forest department patrols, is one such place, where human presence keeps animals at a safe distance.

Tiger Sighted

 All our vehicles gathered at the same spot, and we lingered, everyone eagerly sharing their experiences. Just then, a jeep carrying a group of Indian tourists arrived, their faces lit with excitement—they had seen the tiger! It was the same tiger we had tracked by alarm calls earlier. Hidden in the bushes, he had finally decided to move, and with impeccable timing, they caught the sight. They’d entered the reserve slightly later and unknowingly landed in the perfect spot. In the jungle, it’s all about luck, timing, and patience; sometimes, one gets a glimpse, and sometimes, one doesn’t. A wave of disappointment settled over our group, all four jeeps feeling the pang of a missed opportunity.

It was time to regroup. After a quick discussion among the guides and drivers, we crafted a new plan. We agreed to start by visiting the area where the tiger was last spotted the previous evening. We set off, following the main road in Mukki, careful to stay within the designated speed limit. Kanha’s tiger safari rules require guides to carry a GPS to monitor speed and route, which they submit for review by the forest department at the end of each day, ensuring respectful, safe exploration of the park. The plan renewed our spirits, and with anticipation, we moved forward, ready for whatever the jungle had in store.

 

 

No tiger

 We were nearing the spot where the tiger was last sighted when we noticed a jeep approaching from that direction. Eager for news, we signaled to them, trying to read any hint from their expressions. As they came within earshot, they gestured “no” with a quick shake of their head. Did that mean the tiger had moved on, or had it simply not appeared? When they pulled up next to us, they explained that they’d been waiting quietly, hoping for movement or an alarm call, but the jungle had remained silent. Disappointed, they decided to head off to their breakfast spot. They said other jeeps were still waiting. 

In the morning tiger safari in Kanha, we’re allowed to bring breakfast, as the trip is long and can stretch up to four hours, and we had our packed breakfast as well. But instead of stopping just yet, we decided to keep moving, determined to check every promising area for any sign of a tiger before we took our break. The anticipation was still high—this was Kanha, where the next turn could bring the sighting we were all hoping for.

Change of plan

 My guests looked more disappointed now, so I encouraged them, saying, “Don’t worry, we still have time in this safari, and this is only our first drive—there are plenty more opportunities ahead. The key is not to expect too much and let nature reveal itself on its own terms.” With that, we decided to reach the spot from a different route. Kanha’s network of forest trails is designed to allow tourist vehicles multiple paths, with these routes intersecting at various points. This crisscross of roads is advantageous; if we miss a tiger on one path, there’s often a chance to catch it on another. Tigers, along with other carnivores, prefer walking along soft dirt roads or narrow trails carved through the brush by large herbivores like Indian Gaur and Sambar deer.

So far, we had only spotted Sambar but hadn’t seen any Indian Gaur. In winter, Gaurs often move from the valleys to higher ground, or “daadar” as it’s locally known, where they graze in the open plateaus. Each sighting has its own thrill, and with more paths to explore, our hopes for a tiger encounter remained high as we pressed on through Kanha’s beautiful wilderness.

Explore Tiger Safari Tour : Kanha and Bandhavgarh Tiger Safari Tour in India

Chalo & Ruko

 “Chalo” (let’s go) and “Ruko” (stop)—these two Hindi words are staples of any tiger safari in India, and foreign guests pick them up after just one safari. So, I called out “Chalo” to the driver, and we set off on our new route, moving slowly to catch any movement or alarm call. The jungle was very quiet, we were moving slowly scanning every nuke and corner of the jungle, and then I suddenly said, “Ruko!” what’s there? It’s a fresh pugmark of tiger lined the edge of the road. Sharp and undisturbed, they were a clear sign that a tiger was walking just ahead. No alarm calls echoed around us, it happens sometimes, a signal that the tiger was relaxed—and its prey was too.

We followed the tracks carefully, lost in the thrill, when we rounded a corner and froze: a massive male tiger sat in the middle of the road, majestic and calm. We quickly stopped and gave space for the jeeps behind to enjoy the view, and soon the air filled with the rapid clicks of camera shutters. The scene was ours, shared only by the four jeeps in our group. An amazing sighting of tigers on the very first safari, nothing can beat this. 

Just then, another jeep came from the opposite direction and halted abruptly 100 meters ahead of us—what’s there, why they stopped? Oh my god, another tiger! a tigress had emerged from the bushes, stepping onto the road. Two tigers! It was incredible; some of us became so emotional they shed tears. For many, this was a dream come true. We had stumbled upon a mating pair, a rare sight that winter often brings because it’s a peak season, though tiger mating can happen any time of year.

Every tiger sighting to me is as exhilarating as my very first tiger sighting years ago in Corbett tiger reserve during a research project, where I’d been so mesmerized that I forgot to even lift my camera, which was hanging from my neck. After a few magical moments, and thousands of clicks, it was time to part ways. The mating pair united and decided to turn off into the forest, and we knew the show had come to a close. An incredible sighting, first time for almost everyone except me. It was an experience that would stay with us long after the safari ended.

With smiles now lighting up every face and the satisfaction of a fantastic sighting in the air, the tension among the guides and drivers had vanished. Everyone felt the thrill—and now, the hunger too! So, we decided to head straight to the breakfast point. Along the way, we took our time birdwatching, spotting some beautiful species flitting through the trees, and even came across a Barking Deer, another fascinating species unique to Kanha. The morning had delivered an unforgettable experience, and now, with excitement still fresh, we were ready to savor a well-earned breakfast amidst the jungle’s calm.

The end of the Safari

 What an incredible safari we’d just had! At the breakfast point, we shared our story with a few others, and their eyes lit up with excitement as they listened. By the end of our safari, we had counted over 50 bird species, observed four types of deer, and witnessed a rare sighting of a mating pair of majestic tigers. This first safari in Kanha had truly set the stage for our guests, sparking a deep thrill for Indian wildlife that would stay with them for a long time.